By George L. Ortiz, Jr.
When you stroll through Providence, you cannot help but notice all of the history and
nostalgia – it’s New England. What I never expected was to stumble into Chalkstone Avenue. On this street, where ambulances and police cars race up down the street from Roger Williams and the Veterans Hospital, there is a hidden gem named “Los Andes.”
Delicioso.
The outside of the building is nondescript. It blends in with the rest of the block, except for everyone walking in and out. Even on a Tuesday, it looks like class just let out. Now you have gone south to land in Peru or Bolivia. That’s right, some Latin fusion in the heart of Providence. Two brothers and their dad brought us secrets from Machu Picchu. Their delicacies from the Andes include their famed “Ceviche” and “Peruvian Chaufa.” I know – what? Stay with me here. When we started this journey, I promised that there would be one of these “not so-affordable” joints occasionally. That day is today. It will be worth it.
Check out their Instagram photos: here.
Brilliant.
“Anything made with love, bam! ….” — Emeril Lagasse
They will make you hungry. As you walk in, you realize you are in a different world. The decor is festive and feels like nighttime regardless of when you arrive. The salsa music is blaring, and everyone on staff is smiling. The staff is one of my favorites in the city. They are diverse and excited to be there. This is different from most authentic “Latin family restaurants.” They are mostly college students from nearby colleges. Donning all black, they smile and greet you and make you feel like anything but a poor college student.
The tables are set up everywhere. There are rentable outdoor pods for the winter, so you can have that “alone” feeling (I know I can’t afford that). Three bars are strategically placed throughout; you don’t know where the kitchen is, and I like that. The smells come from everywhere, and I suspect they pipe it in through the vents, but you didn’t hear that from me.
So what is “Chaufa?”
Chaufa is a Chinese-Peruvian dish with fried rice mixed with vegetables, scrambled eggs, soy sauce, steak, chicken, or seafood. One plate is too much to eat by yourself. It costs $22, but well worth it. Then there are the Peruvian drinks and wine, desserts, and fish delicacies that will make you forget about your diet.
We cannot possibly go over all the plates, or my hunger will win out, and I’ll have to leave right now. For the sake of brevity, we will close it out with the dish that made them famous, “Ceviche Martini.” Many Latin American countries made their version, but Peru made it famous. It is considered an appetizer. But if you don’t share, you may not finish your dinner. The Peruvians have a significant Japanese Nikkei Cuisine influence – a fusion of Peruvian and Japanese cuisine. They use chiles and fruity aji peppers to lure you into this fantastic dish. You will become addicted. I promise. This appetizer comes in at $17. I know – expensive. So save up before you come.
I asked one of the owners, Omar Cusco, why he thought Latin American cuisine was such a hot trend and when did it explode?
“This has been relatively new in Rhode Island. We had so little business five years ago that we were closed three out of seven days weekly.”
I asked him what had changed?
“We were invited to an outdoor convention in Providence, and we didn’t have the fire clearance to bring a grill or hot plate.”
He smiled and looked away for a second,
“After talking with my family, we decided that ceviche was the easiest to prepare on the fly and one hell of a show to watch.”
But how did that translate into a trend? He explained that a reporter from California at the event told him that he needed to cater to everyone, not just Latin clients. This made him simplify his menu and reach deeper into his authentic cuisine without compromising his culture. His ceviche has exploded, and so has his business.
Pictured above is the dish one only orders for special occasions. It is called “Lobster Paella” and, as you can see, brings the ocean’s delicacies to you. The dish is $66 and worth every bit of your budget. The way I see it, you can share with no less than six people but will have to fight for the lobster tail. This place is special. The brothers fish weekly for much of what you see on the menu. This is a family business that has grown by leaps and bounds. Many “Los Andes” exist worldwide, but this one is uniquely Providence.
Buen provecho!
Los Andes, 903 Chalkstone Avenue, Providence, RI 02908
401-649-4911
College Foodie in Providence 